Kenya

New Post! I arrived in Nairobi last night. I cannot believe what a difference a change in my flight path to Africa made. Instead of the 20 hour flight from DC - Johannesburg (via 1:00 AM stop in Dakar) on to a various African capital city, I flew through Amsterdam, direct to Nairobi. The two seven hour flights separated by a lay over was an amazing change. I feel a thousand times better than I normally do.

I'm writing from the Golden Spur, the American Indian-themed restaurant inside the Nairobi Holiday Inn. I'm a little surprised by the Southwest theme, but going with it. Two soundsystems are playing competing versions of up-tempo pop ballads. The walls are decorated with feathers and fake cacti. It feels like home.

I'm in Kenya for another opportunity to visit partners in country. The partner I'm visiting is particularly well-respected, and I really appreciate their rights-based approach to the work they do. The project they implement is in Kibera, which is an "informal settlement" outside of Nairobi. Over a million people live within its 5 square kilometers, but none of them can rely on government supported services. The "informal" nature of their slum settlement denies them formal access to even the most basic of government sponsored goods (sanitation, electricity, water, education, etc..)

The group I'm working with helps local groups organize to provide some of these services, health and education in particular. It also supports group savings and loans for the most economically marginalized, and partners with early childhood development centers. I'm most excited to visit these centers and observe how the myriad needs of very young children can be met and education on the importance of early development taught to entire communities. Before some of the home-based care centers started, mothers in Kibera would leave their babies outside their homes during the day while they worked or ran errands. I have heard this anecdote, and I believe it, but it is so far from my observed reality, I find it difficult to believe.

Tomorrow I go to Kibera, the future of much of the world as urbanization continues at a rapid-fire pace. I bought a new camera, so I can post pictures again! (It's lodged in my safe right now, but I'm going to be brave and bring it with tomorrow.)